Monday, July 27, 2009

Altamonte Springs Has Shopping, Condos and Parks



Ducks departing from shore at Cranes Roost Lake


Just over the Orange County Line lies the city of Altamonte Springs. For visitors to Orlando who think they have a handle on the area once they discover the downtown district, it may come as a surprise to find a fully developed outlying urban core just eight miles north of central Orlando. Over the last few years, a really attractive zone has come to maturity around the shores of Crane's Roost Lake on the northwest corner of the Altamonte Mall. Several mid-rise condo buildings and an Embassy Suites Hotel and numerous office buildings are situated along the lake's perimeter.


Picture of the lake from the surrounding boardwalk with a magnificent view of the bridge, along with a crane drying his wings



The park surrounding the lake has been expanded by a boardwalk along its eastern shore that actually juts out into the water and includes canopied overlooks. There is a stage out in the lake as well and it plays host to live performances of all kinds of music several times a month. The shore is dotted with beautiful landscaping, sculptures and fountains that make it a delightful place for a stroll day or night. The whole area attracts throngs for multiple events, topped by a fourth of July celebration called "Red, Hot and Boom" that rivals the display at downtown Orlando's Lake Eola festivities on the same holiday.



View of the Cranes Roost Lake bridge with a view of the Uptown Lofts in the distance



The maturation of this part of the metro into a complete urban nexus means the area has really become, as its planners have chosen to designate it, "Uptown Altamonte." The arrested development caused by the real estate meltdown of 2008 has stopped the completion of the last few pieces of this delightful puzzle, but even without them, the result is hugely successful in embracing the kind of live-work-play atmosphere that so many cities are striving for.



The entrance into the neighborhood of a job we did in Altamonte Springs



In a process that has evolved over the last thirty five years, since the Altamonte Mall opened to resounding good fortune in 1974, the area has really become a great example of the results of dynamic planning carefully implemented on a site with real geographic assets. An excursion here is definitely worth the detour. And you're very likely to see more than a few of the parks namesakes, a wide variety of cranes.



Ducks enjoying a swim on Cranes Roost Lake



Monday, July 20, 2009

Restaurant Row- Orlando's Sand Lake Road


An adjunct to the International Drive area that has evolved over the last few years is commonly referred to as Restaurant Row. Centered on the part of Sand Lake Road just west of I-4, it has become a very attractive area that appeals to locals and visitors alike.


The new Whole Foods Market, which probably has half its expansive area dedicated to prepared food kicks off the east end of the street surrounded by a few other eateries including a sushi restaurant and a New York Bakery.


Heading west the highlights include The Samba Room, Seasons 52 and Roy's, these last two being rated in the top ten food spots in Orlando (out of about 1200). I'm guessing the total count for this area would be at least one hundred restaurants/food spots. And the atmosphere is perfectly conducive to taking a stroll through it all. Any city would be proud to have such a nice collection.
The restaurants on the south side of the road back up to Little Sand Lake. This whole area was owned by Dr. Phillips and was the sight of his most extensive citrus groves. He was a partner of my great grandfather in a couple of ventures and they were close friends. His son was Howard Phillips who died childless and left the bulk of his wealth to a foundation which has been the source of much cultural funding in Orlando over the years. Howard was murdered by a hustler in San Francisco and from a couple who are best friends of mine and were frequent dinner guests of Howard's, I understand he was quite a colorful character. He was well known for sending out dinner invitations to his ultra-modern house on Lake Formosa in Loch Haven Park. He willed the home to the city and it has become the Menello Museun of Folk Art. Invitations were clearly marked with the starting and ending times for the repast. Promptly upon the hour marked for departure, Howard would rise and thank everyone for coming. This, along with the butler already having gathered their hats and coats, was the signal for everyone to leave. Occasionally, my friends the Spences, and at other times, my friends the Kellers, would be asked to stay. This special honor was extended to only a select few. And knowing these two couples to be among the most charming people I have ever met, I heartily approve his taste.
The area immediately north of Restaurant Row is called Dr. Phillips. The neighborhood Sand Lake Road runs into as it heads west is Bay Hill. About fifteen years ago we did a garden here for the famous musical innovator and founder of "The Byrds," Roger McGuinn. We did landscaping and a water feature for another home here that had originally graced the cover of Better Homes and Gardens as an example of modern design back in the sixties. If one follows the road as it snakes through the lovely homes here you will eventually come to the Bay Hill Country Club. This course is home to the nationally televised Arnold Palmer Classic PGA tournament. The area predates the opening of Disney by several years, and has gone through its renovation phase in the last decade. The oaks are starting to provide a nice canopy. And now that Restaurant Row has matured, the area finally has sufficient infrastructure to allow its residents to enjoy almost any amenity they might want within two or three miles of their homes. This southwest area in general, including Bay Hill and Windermere, have become magnets for the ultra-rich from around the world who fall in love with Disney and decide they want a home near there. The fact that the area has evolved attractive commercial areas amid the pristine chain of lakes and highly ranked golf courses helps seal the deal. It's nice, but old Orlando suits me better

A View of Little Sand Lake, which sits just behind Restaurant Row's South Side. Not that long ago, swimming here was like swimming in a crystal clear spring. The name comes from being able to see the sandy bottom so clearly. The water flows south for several miles through the much larger-Big Sand Lake!

Back in Orlando on International Drive

While we're waiting for the new studio space to be ready, we're living like tourists in an assortment of hotels down here because the price is about half for the same quality accommodation in tow. As I pointed out previously, the real city of Orlando exists somewhat anonymously to the north of the spot where hundreds of millions of tourists have spent their vacations, oblivious to their actual location.
One of the most popular of those tourist areas is International Drive. This district is distinctly divided into northern and southern parts. The older northern section was the place originally picked by the city's leaders to keep the tourists away from downtown. Over the years it grew with minimal planning and the resultant area is a warren of ticket shops, buffet restaurants, gift shops and hotels of every size and shape.
This is home to Wet'n Wild and the Magic Midway amusement park. It has an urban and walkable feel that has made it very popular with British and Brazilian tourists. Most of the restaurants are more noted for their prices than their great dining experiences. Salt Island, a really nice place with a great bar, is a standout for great food and service. Not withstanding its shortcomings, the northern section is not a bad spot for good value and a place for families with teenagers to be able to let them wander on their own. On weekends, the local kids show up and the main street becomes somewhat of a cruising spot.
Determined not to let it share the unorganized, cluttered and somewhat tacky fate of its predecessor, the county planners determined on a decidedly different look for the newer southern section of the Drive. This where they situated the convention center, currently the country's second largest. There's also the Aquatic Center, Pointe Orlando and a bevy of good restaurants. The high point for luxury accomodations is the Peabody Hotel. The southern outpost of the venerable Memphis dowager with which she shares a name, the property is currently undergoing a massive expansion to include the tallest tower in the Orlando area.
In contrast to her northern sister, South International Drive is heavily landscaped and one can easily walk large stretches of it shaded by oak trees. After passing under the Beachline Expressway, the previous terminus of the Drive was Sea World and her adjunct parks. Over the last few years, the final miles of I-Drive have become home to several mega time share and condo complexes. Spending some time down here in the last few weeks, I can see why people still come to this area for vacation. It probably represents one of the best travel deals on the planet.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Mid Beachin Miami Beach Arthur Godfrey Road

Bell Tower of St. Charles Catholic Church West end 41st Street



Forty first street effectively bisects Miami Beach. On my visits, it's one of the areas where I usually spend considerable time. It is largely devoid of tourists and is home to a considerable portion of hasidic jews. If one is anti-semitic, homophobic or uncomfortable with hispanics, Miami Beach would be a place to avoid. On the other hand, if you savor the rich olla podrida here as I do, then by all means, dig in. From the over the top and wildly expensive Forge restaurant to the simple Chicken Kitchen or middle eastern Pita Palace, Arthur Godfrey Road offers a wide variety of dining options.




If you're wearing clothes like these a little breeze and shade helps when it's ninety-two outside






What captivates about mid-beach is that the amenities feel like those you associate with every day living. The hardware store, the little shops and neighborhood eateries are frequented by people who call the island home. With almost one hundred thousand full time residents this city is unique in blending its two worlds. The intermingling of urbanity and a Manhattan insouciance with the lush tropical backdrop, pulsing street life and killer architecture make this a place that excites even the most jaded traveler. As I return to Miami Beach, every time I reach the top of the bridge on the Julia Tuttle Causeway and see the island laid out before me in all its beauty, I feel a palpable rush of pleasant memories. I always think, " this is going to be good." And so far, it always has been.

Mary Statue is cooled by twin fountains at St. Charles


Monday, July 13, 2009

The Adventures Of Morris Lapidus In Miami Beach

Lobby of the Fountainebleu including the "Staircase to Nowhere" in the back of the photo




The famous cheese hole windows and the curving facade



Morris Lapidus completed the Fountainebleu in 1954. According to his autobiography "Too Much Is Never Enough," his relationship with the owner was contentious from start to finish. And instead of being grateful to Morris for creating what was an instant hit and worldwide sensation, Morris had to sue him to get paid his final draw. What lay ahead made the fight about pay seem trivial by comparison, When the owner of the Fountainebleu found out that Morris had agreed to design the Eden Roc Hotel next door, he went into a rage. How dare he create another project in Miami Beach, let alone on a neighboring property! And the Eden Roc's owner was his former partner in the Sans Souci Hotel, with whom he had an acrimonious divorce. Never mind that he had no exclusivity agreement with Morris. Forget the fact that he had treated Morris shabbily in every aspect of their relationship, he expected loyalty and he sued to stop the project. Obviously this fellow was off his bean.

Morris went a completely different direction with the Eden Roc. From its steamship top to its infusion of Louis the XIV elements, the design was different enough from the Fountainebleu to have been built by another architect entirely. It is merely a testament to his genius that he could succeed with something so refreshingly new. At the end of the day, the Fountainebleu is the stronger design. Both properties have had fairly recent renovations and in my opinion the Eden Roc's is closer to the original.


The Steamship Top of the Eden Roc with new Fountainebleu Tower at far right

Eden Roc interior mixes Louis XIV with modern


After failing to stop the project, the owner of the Fountainebleu vowed to seek revenge in another way. He built an addition to his hotel that was windowless on the north side and as tall as the Eden Roc. He claimed that he had built a wall between the two properties. He was particularly proud of the fact that he had blocked the rival hotel's views and put the pool area in shade for most of the winter months. The Eden Roc's owner sued but lost when the courts ruled that the property rights of the Fountainebleu superceded the Eden Roc's need for sunlight. Once again the litigation merely went along with Morris' credo , which proved a blessing and a curse, too much would never be enough for him.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Miami Beach -Where the Keys Begin

Indian Creek looking south from Fountainebleu

Most people don't realize it but a simple look at the map will confirm, the Florida keys start in Miami Beach. This island, approximately six miles long and about one mile wide is separated from the mainland by about three miles of Biscayne Bay. Over the years the span has been breached by a series of islands, so that in the case of the Venetian Causeway, the gap can be traversed on bicycle over a series of small easily travelled bridges.
This place is for me, one of the most magical places on earth. It occurred to me today that the incredible architecture of this Miami Beach is a reflection of the inspiration it has provided countless architects and designers to do their best work. The city has been a magnet to dreamers and visionaries from the days that Carl Fisher saw it as the glorious terminus of his Dixie Highway. Today, Miami Beach is the world's foremost repository of art deco and mid century modern architecture.
A particular favorite of mine is Morris Lapidus. As I was coming of age, our family made frequent trips to Miami Beach. In the sixties, the city was at its height of glamour. Jackie Gleason was making his popular tv show here, Goldfinger had used the Fountainebleu Hotel as a backdrop. Fashionable shops abounded on Lincoln Road, And the houseboat on Indian Creek would be the setting for "Surfside Six."
Morris was the force behind much of this glamour. His brilliant work on the Fountainebleu, Eden Roc and Americana Hotels set the standard and style by which all others would be gauged. And for me personally, without the Lincoln Road that he redesigned, the city would be impossible to imagine. As I have sat countless times in cafes along this car-free stretch of six blocks, I constantly marvel that pedestrians, bikers and skateboarders manage to throng the place and yet I've never seen a collision. I've always attributed it to some magical spell that Lapidus cast over this place. Throughout its existence, Miami Beach has seemed animated by each successive participant in its evolution and it so often seems as fantastic as someones dream coming true.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Orlando, Disney and Tourism

Walt Disney never got over the fact that outside his beautiful world-famed Disneyland grew a tangled assortment of hotels, motels, fast food joints and a host of unsightly tackiness. He dreamed to do his next venture on a huge scale where he could create an environment where he could control everything. He wanted to build his own world. And when he finally decided Florida was the state, he was drawn to Orlando as the natural choice. It was almost exactly at the intersection of the Florida Turnpike and Interstate 4 that his agents were able to secretly purchase 30,000 acres of woods, groves and pastures that would eventually house "the happiest place on earth." The dream that he actualized has surpassed the vision that many of its early designers embraced. There's a whole town of Celebration, four giant theme parks, two downtowns, four golf courses, twenty five thousand hotel rooms and a state of the art road and mass transit system. There are over 55,000 employees.
View of Magic Kingdom from the top of the Contemporary Hotel with the famous mono-rail in foreground.
The property is only about half developed, but it has revolutionized travel and vacation for people all over the world. At this site every want and need for a short visit or a total lifetime is anticipated and fulfilled. Its success has spawned smaller but still impressive complexes at Universal Studios and Sea World. And the entire industry has transformed the area in another way by attracting designer, theater and media types who might have originally worked for the mega parks but have gone on to start other ventures that have helped to make Orlando a center for all three fields.

Nickelodeon Studios and the Golf Network, both headquartered in Orlando represent only two of the media outlets of national prominence. Architectural , interior and landscape design firms abound and many have international prominence. And the performance arts are amply represented in one of the country's most vital theater scenes. The Fringe Festival, held each spring in Loch Haven Park, is the nation's oldest and attracts actors and producers from all over the world. Orlando has the third largest number of members of the musicians union as well as SAG and actors equity.

Ultimately the forces that grew from the Disney colossus have created synergy with the high tech businesses the space program created. One of those is at Tiburon Studios, a division of Electronic Arts, which produces video games at its headquarters five miles north of downtown Orlando. Another is the phenomenally successful Full Sail University. Students from all over come to study technical aspects of the movie, music and video business, as well as animation and computer graphics. The merge of the creative and technical forces unleashed by the two big engines of the new Orlando, only give a hint at the exciting possibilities lie in store for central Florida in the years to come.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Why Orlando Grew



A postcard of the Municipal Pier on Lake Tohopekaliga Circa 1920's



Orlando is a watershed. On its north side all the lakes and rivers flow into the St Johns River and empty into the Atlantic a few miles east of downtown Jacksonville. On the south side, the same waters move down through the Kissimmee River into Lake Okeechobee and empty through the Calosahatchee River into the gulf at Fort Meyers. So in its earliest days, the town served as the natural overland transhipment point between these two heads of navigation, namely Sanford and Kisssimmee. Sanford was the larger and more navigable port and accommodated large steamships that made their way up the St Johns with cargoes of lumber and citrus to be shipped from Jacksonville to the north. My great grandfather, Leo Egerton Fosgate, formed a partnership with Dr. Philips for a lumber mill in Forrest City in what is now Altamonte Springs . There they milled wood that would be shipped up the Wekiva River to a point a little west of Sanford, where the pristine spring-fed waters of the river empty into the St Johns. When the trees ran out, my great uncle converted the lumber mill into a citrus processing plant which was eventually sold to Minute Maid. It stood very near the now busy intersection of state roads 434 and 436 and eventually served as the terminus of the Tavares and Eustis Railroad spur. Only the water tower from the original plant still stands, I have an aerial photo of the plant taken in the early fifties showing it surrounded by citrus groves. Today it is the site of numerous shopping centers but the Little Wekiva still flows on its southern border.
The south side of Orlando flourished because of the cattle trade, first with Cuba and later with other parts of the United States. To this day it remains one of the primary sources of breeder cattle for the rest of the country.
South of St. Cloud a view of one of the many cow ranches

The railroads changed everything for Orlamdo as they did for most of the country and lines serving the cities of Tampa and Miami soon transected in Orlando because of its previously established role as entrepot and the abundance of high and dry land on which to construct track. More importantly citrus and produce could now be transported to the north in a timely manner and there was a boom that brought people from all over. This included a sizable emigre community of younger sons of the British aristocracy to the Conway Area. They established a polo club and a yacht club. The latter existed down to the early sixties and I have fond memories of racing our family's "C" skow there on Sunday afternoons when I was growing up .
Devastating freezes all but wiped out the citrus business in the 1890's, but by then many people had started to vacation here and the pull of the place was inexorable. The citrus industry came roaring back and the demand for oranges even allowed it to prosper in the thirties, in contrast to much of the nation.





A steam boat named "City of Jacksonville" on Lake Monroe in Sanford. This steamer was 160.5ft long and 32.5ft wide. Circa 1908.


In 1914 the town had recovered enough that my great great uncle Charles P Dow and his associates could found the People's National Bank and in 1917 they changed its name to the First National Bank of Orlando. Its successor bank, after the reorganization of 1933, eventually became the SunTrust Bank, the tenth largest bank in the U S today. The first chairman of that bank , Joel Wells, was a family friend and his brother Charlie, who was the chief justice of the Florida Supreme Court at the time of the controversial Bush v Gore decision that decided the 2000 presidential election, was even closer. His former wife, Andrea Lunsford, distinguished professor at Stanford and one of the country's foremost authorities on writing, has been one of my most influential friends and mentors.
As the citrus, produce and cattle businesses grew, Orlando became the banking, insurance and service center of the region. When World War II came along, Florida ,as an extremity of the country was viewed as vulnerable and Orlando became the home of what would eventually become two air force bases.
For years a select group of wealthy northerners had chosen Orlando and Winter Park as their winter home. In those days it was customary for people of means to come for the season, which traditionally was any time between Christmas and Easter. They would rent little cottages and employ staff to help with cooking and cleaning. Many fell in love with the area and moved here for their retirement along with their fortunes. By the mid fifties, Orlando had become a comfortable mid sized city which took its nickname "The City Beautiful" seriously. The events of the next ten years would change its direction in ways that the residents then could hardly imagine.

Florida's Unique Geography

Starting around the mouth of the St Johns River and running diagonally southwest through Starke and Perry and on to the Gulf of Mexico is the line that marks the northern edge of the peninsula of Florida. It's that unique feature, bounded by two great bodies of water that help make Florida the subtropical paradise we know it to be. It makes it the wettest state with the most amazing skies and full of lakes and streams. And as it reaches south it becomes, in the keys, an extension of the Caribbean region. The climate is moderated by the seas as well, allowing us to grow oranges, tangerines, grapefruit and other citrus better than anywhere else on earth. The agricultural bounty doesn't stop there. Sugar cane, winter vegetables, strawberries and blueberries as well as many tropical fruits help round out the rich harvest. Of course everyone is aware of the contribution that climate, a rich and luxuriant plant life, beautiful beaches and other attractions have made towards ranking Florida as the most popular place on the planet to visit.

North of the diagonal line lies mainland Florida, culturally and geographically much tied to it's neighbors across the border, Alabama and most particularly Georgia. The weather, crops and dialect have a real connection to the old south and prior to the civil war, very few people lived below this line. Railroads, and later, superhighways, jets and air conditioning made the peninsula boom so that today ninety percent of the population lives there.


As the son of a native Floridian architect and grandson and great nephew to two of the pillars of the citrus industry, my attachment to this place runs deep. In my work as a landscape designer, I travel extensively, particularly from Orlando to Miami, in search of the best plants. I went to college at Eckerd in St Petersburg and have spent considerable time in many of the cities of the peninsula, particularly Miami Beach, Jacksonville and Tampa. And my hometowns of Orlando and Winter Park have been my center of operation for a combined total of over forty years. As an artist, I have come to appreciate the architects and artists who have a particular Florida connection-Tiffany,Homer, Dali, Lapidus, Wright, Mizner and Rogers. My interest in history, while not restricted to this state, lead me to serve on the board of the Orange County Regional History Museum, one of the premier facilities of its type in the southeast.

Taking advantage of my varied experiences, these writings seek to illuminate all that I know about Florida and perhaps spark an interest in others to learn more about it as well. Next I will write about what contributes to making Orlando such an important city and it's geographical raison d'etre. And I'll cap it off with an article about the feature at the very center of it, Lake Eola Park. You're sure to learn something new and interesting.

What is Florida Life?


Florida Life is a complete exploration of all aspects of Florida living- history, geography, culture, people and the natural world. As an artist and native Floridian I am fascinated by this place, as I think everyone should be with the place they live. As freeholders, we should always seek to live somewhere that speaks to us, that fills us with joy. If your environment doesn't do that for you, you should either try to turn on to it or move.
I have long sought to capture the visual beauty that I find here through painting. Now the blogosphere is allowing me a chance to explore it through words. It's a calling that has been postponed for almost forty years. I made a conscious decision my senior year in college to switch from a calling in writing that saw me be editor of my college literary magazine and having my poetry and prose poems published both in this country and the United Kingdom. I had realized that it would be virtually impossible to get published and earn money without making artistic and lifestyle changes I found unpalatable. In the visual arts, I felt I could flourish without having to make those compromises. I have been fortunate in that time to achieve success as an artist and designer. Now with the ability to self publish to a worldwide audience, I look forward to be able to engage in all the arts that I love. And doing it about a place I feel as fervently affectionate about as Florida puts it all together in a package that I feel certain will inspire my best work. I have things to say about Florida that should interest not only those who live here , but also the millions who visit here from all over the world.